Imagine a place where the Earth is still in the throes of creation. A land where the ground steams, mountains are streaked with impossible colors, and the silence is so profound it seems to have a sound of its own. This isn’t a sci-fi film set or a distant planet; it’s the Highlands of Iceland. For a moment, set aside the coastal Ring Road with its accessible wonders. The true, untamed heart of this island nation lies deep inland, a vast and spectacular volcanic desert that is open to travelers for only a few fleeting months each summer. This is a realm of raw, elemental power, a landscape that feels simultaneously ancient and thrillingly unfinished.
The Painted Hills of Landmannalaugar
The journey into the Highlands is an adventure in itself, a transition from the modern world to the primal. As your 4×4 vehicle navigates the infamous
F-roads—unpaved, rugged tracks that are the only arteries into this wilderness—and fords glacial rivers, you feel the layers of civilization peeling away. And then, you arrive in Landmannalaugar, and the world simply explodes into color. These are not mere mountains; they are geological masterpieces. Sweeping waves of red, ochre, rich yellow, and mossy green ripple across the slopes of the
rhyolite mountains. This unique volcanic rock is rich in minerals, creating a psychedelic palette that changes with the light. Steam rises lazily from hidden vents in the earth, and a natural hot river winds through the valley floor, its warm, geothermal waters offering a sublime reward for weary explorers. To soak in this natural bath, surrounded by a panorama that defies belief, is an experience that borders on the magical. Hiking in Landmannalaugar is like walking through a dreamscape, where every crest and ridge reveals a new, more breathtaking vista than the last. It is famously the starting point of the Laugavegur trail, a multi-day trek often cited as one of the most beautiful hikes on the planet.
Venturing into the Icelandic Highlands is not a casual road trip; it demands serious preparation. The F-roads are unpaved, rugged tracks that legally require a 4×4 vehicle, and many involve unbridged river crossings that can be treacherous. Weather conditions are notoriously unpredictable and can change from sunny to a blizzard in minutes, even in summer. You must be self-sufficient, carrying extra food, water, warm clothing, and fuel, as services are non-existent. Always check road conditions on road.is and weather forecasts before you depart, and file a travel plan with safetravel.is.
Þórsmörk: The Valley of Thor
Nestled protectively between the mighty glaciers of Eyjafjallajökull, Mýrdalsjökull, and Tindfjallajökull lies a valley that feels like a lost world. This is Þórsmörk, or the “Valley of Thor,” and it stands as a sanctuary of astonishing green in the midst of volcanic ash and ice. Shielded by the towering ice caps, the valley boasts a surprisingly mild microclimate. This unique condition allows for the growth of dwarf birch forests and a thick, velvety carpet of moss that blankets the dramatic landscape. It is a stunning tapestry of sharp, emerald ridges, braided rivers cutting through black sand plains, and glacial tongues that creep down from the surrounding peaks. Reaching this haven requires crossing a series of powerful, fast-flowing glacial rivers, a challenge that transforms your arrival into a genuine accomplishment. For hikers, Þórsmörk is nothing short of paradise. An extensive network of trails weaves through deep canyons, ascends to viewpoints offering staggering perspectives of the glaciers, and leads into quiet, hidden valleys where the only sounds are the whistling wind and the distant rumble of moving ice.
Kerlingarfjöll and the Steaming Earth
If Landmannalaugar is a vibrant painting, then the Kerlingarfjöll mountain range is the Earth’s raw, seething core breaking through the surface. This area is a geothermal wonderland that embodies the “fire” in the Land of Ice and Fire. The main attraction here is the
Hveradalir geothermal area, a valley of pure, elemental chaos. The ground itself is a canvas stained with the brilliant reds, oranges, and yellows of sulfur and other mineral deposits left by the escaping heat. Fumaroles hiss columns of steam into the crisp air, mud pots bubble with a thick, geothermal stew, and the sharp scent of sulfur is a constant reminder of the immense power churning just beneath your feet. Hiking trails and boardwalks wind precariously between these geothermal features, allowing you to safely navigate a landscape that feels truly alive. The visual contrast between the fiery, colorful earth and the lingering patches of snow and ice that often persist into the summer is startling and utterly unforgettable.
The Desolate Majesty of Askja
The journey to Askja is a profound lesson in desolation and scale. It involves a long drive across the Ódáðahraun, an immense and barren lava desert so otherworldly that NASA used it to train Apollo astronauts for their moon missions. The emptiness is staggering. For hours, the view is a monochrome expanse of black volcanic sand, jagged rock formations, and the distant, shimmering horizon. Then, you reach the Askja caldera, a massive crater over 50 square kilometers in size, formed by a cataclysmic eruption centuries ago. Within this vast basin lies one of Iceland’s deepest lakes,
Öskjuvatn, a huge expanse of cold, dark, and intimidating water. Yet, beside it sits the true prize for many visitors:
Víti, a name which ominously translates to ‘hell’. It is a smaller explosion crater, but its contents are heavenly. It holds opaque, milky-blue geothermal water, naturally heated to a comfortable swimming temperature. On a calm day, descending the steep crater walls to float in its warm embrace, enveloped by the silent, epic scale of the caldera, is an experience that transcends mere travel. It is a moment of pure connection with a wild and powerful planet.
