When you picture Hong Kong, what comes to mind? Is it the dazzling symphony of lights across Victoria Harbour, the endless canyons of skyscrapers reaching for the clouds, or the sheer, kinetic energy of millions of people navigating crowded streets? For many, Hong Kong is the ultimate urban playground, a city that never seems to sleep. Yet, woven into the very fabric of this high-density metropolis is a profound and accessible tranquility. There is a side to Hong Kong that moves to a different rhythm, a place of quiet contemplation, ancient traditions, and breathtaking natural beauty that exists just beyond the hum of the city.
This is the story of the other Hong Kong, the one you find when you trade the MTR for a ferry, or a shopping mall for a winding mountain trail. It’s a revelation that reshapes your understanding of what this incredible place truly is. The journey to this side of Hong Kong often begins with a short trip across the water.
Islands of Solitude: Escaping the Urban Pulse
Hong Kong is not a single landmass but an archipelago of over 260 islands. While Hong Kong Island and Kowloon are the epicenters of commerce and chaos, the outlying islands offer an immediate and dramatic change of pace. Taking a ferry from the Central Piers is like stepping through a portal. The skyline shrinks behind you, the noise of traffic is replaced by the gentle churn of the sea, and the air begins to feel different.
Lamma Island, for example, is famous for its complete absence of cars. The main modes of transport are walking and cycling. The narrow paths of Yong Shue Wan are lined with quirky cafes, artisan shops, and laid-back seafood restaurants. But venture just a little further, and you’re on the Family Trail, a paved path that meanders over hills and along stunning coastlines, connecting the main villages. Here, the only sounds are the chirping of insects, the rustle of leaves in the sea breeze, and your own footsteps. You can spend an entire day hiking, stopping at deserted beaches like Lo So Shing, and feeling a world away from the city you left behind that morning.
Then there is Lantau Island, the largest of them all. While it hosts Disneyland and the airport, a vast majority of the island is protected country park. It is a place of grand scale and deep spiritual significance. The journey on the Ngong Ping 360 cable car is an experience in itself, offering panoramic views of the lush mountains and the South China Sea. At the top, you are greeted by the serene presence of the Tian Tan Buddha, or the Big Buddha, seated majestically atop a hill. Walking the 268 steps to its base is a meditative act. Nearby, the Po Lin Monastery offers a glimpse into a life of devotion, with the scent of incense hanging heavy in the air and the quiet chants of monks providing a soothing soundtrack.
Green Lungs: Parks and Trails Above the City
You don’t even need to leave the main urban areas to find peace. Hong Kong’s planners have masterfully integrated pockets of nature right into the city’s heart. These aren’t just patches of grass; they are meticulously designed sanctuaries. Nan Lian Garden in Diamond Hill is a stunning example of classical Chinese landscaping from the Tang dynasty. Every rock, tree, and pond is placed according to specific rules of harmony. Walking its pathways, crossing the vibrant red Zi Wu Bridge, and listening to the waterfall at the Pavilion of Absolute Perfection, you completely forget that you are surrounded by one of the world’s densest urban environments.
For those who seek a more active form of contemplation, Hong Kong offers a world-class network of hiking trails. The city is crisscrossed by four major long-distance trails—the MacLehose, Wilson, Lantau, and Hong Kong Trails—all astonishingly well-maintained and accessible. The Dragon’s Back trail is perhaps the most famous day hike, and for good reason. After a short but steep climb, you emerge onto a spectacular undulating ridge with 360-degree views of the coastline, sandy beaches, and emerald islands. It’s a place to feel the wind, watch eagles soar, and see the city from a humbling new perspective.
Despite its reputation as a concrete jungle, a surprising fact is that approximately 40% of Hong Kong’s total land area is designated as country parks and special areas. This extensive network provides a vital green lung for the city. It encompasses a vast array of landscapes, from mountains and woodlands to coastlines and reservoirs, all protected and accessible to the public for recreation and conservation.
Finding History in Hidden Corners
The contemplative side of Hong Kong is also found in its history. Tucked away on Hollywood Road, amidst antique shops and art galleries, is the Man Mo Temple. Step inside, and you are immediately transported. Giant coils of incense hang from the ceiling, releasing fragrant plumes of smoke that catch the light filtering through the roof. It is a place of quiet prayer and reverence, dedicated to the gods of literature (Man) and war (Mo). Watching local residents pay their respects is a powerful reminder of the deep cultural currents that flow beneath the city’s modern surface.
Further afield, in the New Territories, you can explore ancient walled villages (Tsang Tai Uk) or ancestral halls that have stood for centuries. These places tell the story of the clans and communities that existed here long before Hong Kong became a global financial hub. Walking through their quiet courtyards and ornate halls offers a connection to a past that is still very much alive.
Ultimately, the quiet and contemplative side of Hong Kong is not something you stumble upon by accident. It requires a conscious decision to look beyond the obvious, to choose a different path. It’s about understanding that the city’s true character lies in its duality—the dynamic interplay between its frantic energy and its profound stillness. For the traveler willing to seek it out, this hidden Hong Kong offers a richer, deeper, and far more rewarding experience, proving that even in the most vertical of cities, there is always space to breathe.
